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Stories & Narratives

Long-form pieces on the people, history, and changes shaping the mountains.

The Baroque facade of the Church of Our Lady of Compassion on the hill in Piedade, Divar Island, in black and white, a cross on the pediment and a few figures at the door
Stories & Narratives·12 min read

Divar Island: The Goan Island Everyone Calls 'Dead' (and Why It Isn't)

An outsider's honest portrait of Divar, the ferry-only island in the Mandovi that looks abandoned but is really the most preserved corner of old Goa: the empty Portuguese houses, the hilltop church, the Bonderam festival, and how to visit without wrecking the quiet.

Rajesh Thakur·8/5/2026
Dudhsagar Falls cascading down dark rock past the arches of an old stone railway viaduct in Goa
Stories & Narratives·10 min read

Goa's Waterfall Pools: When You Can Actually Swim Them (and When They Drown People)

An outsider's honest guide to Goa's waterfall plunge pools: why the state bans swimming in the monsoon, where and when you can actually swim (Netravali, Dudhsagar), and how to do it safely without geotagging the place to death.

Rajesh Thakur·7/31/2026
A Malabar pit viper with brown and green mottled scales coiled on a mossy rock, triangular head resting on its coils
Stories & Narratives·13 min read

Herping in Goa: A Monsoon Night Walk, and the Snakebite Safety Nobody Tells You

An outsider's honest guide to herping in Goa: the monsoon night walk through the Western Ghats forests, the frogs and snakes you actually see, why you go with a naturalist, and the plain-language snakebite safety that matters most.

Rajesh Thakur·7/31/2026
Grande Island and a smaller island sitting low on the horizon across a blue-grey sea off the Goa coast near Vasco da Gama, under a big cloudy sky.
Stories & Narratives·12 min read

Scuba Diving in Goa: An Honest Guide to Grande Island and Suzy's Wreck

An outsider's honest guide to scuba diving in Goa: the wreck and reefs of Grande Island, what you actually see, the truth about visibility, when to go, and the safety homework that matters more than anything.

Rajesh Thakur·7/30/2026
A green forested laterite headland dropping into the blue Arabian Sea, seen from Cabo de Rama Fort in South Goa
Stories & Narratives·12 min read

Goa's Laterite Plateaus: The Sadas and the Monsoon World Above the Beaches

An outsider's honest guide to Goa's laterite plateaus, the sadas: bare rock that blooms with endemic and carnivorous plants in the monsoon, from crowded Cabo de Rama to the threatened Bhagwati plateau, and how to walk one without harming it.

Rajesh Thakur·7/30/2026
A mugger crocodile basking on a muddy bank at the water's edge, broad snout and armoured back visible from above
Stories & Narratives·13 min read

Crocodiles and Otters in Goa: An Honest Guide to the Cumbarjua Backwaters

An outsider's honest guide to Goa's backwater wildlife: the wild mugger crocodiles and rare otters of the Cumbarjua canal between Chorao and Divar, what you actually see, and how to go slowly, safely and without harming the animals.

Rajesh Thakur·7/30/2026
A flat dark rocky intertidal shelf at Anjuna beach, Goa, with small water-filled pools in the foreground rock and the calm sea and a fishing boat beyond under a pale sky.
Stories & Narratives·12 min read

Goa's Tide Pools: The Overlooked Wild Coast Between the Beaches

An outsider's guide to tide pooling in Goa: the rocky shores between the beaches, the anemones, crabs and sea stars a low tide reveals, how to read the tide and the moon, and the one rule that keeps it worth doing.

Rajesh Thakur·7/29/2026
Bright green flooded khazan rice fields in Goa under a cloudy monsoon sky, coconut palms and a red-roofed house along the far treeline.
Stories & Narratives·12 min read

Goa's Khazan Lands: A Walk Through the Wetland Heritage the Beaches Hide

An outsider's guide to Goa's khazan lands: the five-hundred-year-old tidal farming system of bunds and sluice gates, the otters and birds that live in it, why it is disappearing, and how to walk it with a wildlife biologist.

Rajesh Thakur·7/28/2026
The Lal Ghat waterfront on Lake Pichola in Udaipur, a heritage haveli rising from the water with people on the ghat steps
Stories & Narratives·12 min read

Udaipur Without a Plan: A Slow, Old-City Day the Way Locals Do It

Underwhelmed by Udaipur? You probably rushed it. An outsider's guide, built from what residents say, to one slow old-city day: a ghat at dawn, the working bazaars on foot, a real thali, and the folk show at dusk.

Rajesh Thakur·7/16/2026
A wild snow leopard walking across a snow slope in the high Himalaya
Treks & Adventure·14 min read

Snow Leopard Expedition in Spiti: Tracking Kibber's Ghost Cat

What a winter snow-leopard tracking trip to Kibber, Spiti is really like: honest sighting odds, the cost ladder, the conservation that funds it, the Kinnaur winter route, and how to view the cat without harming it.

Ajay Negi·6/21/2026
Shangarh meadow in Sainj Valley with the wooden Shangchul Mahadev temple and snow-capped peaks behind
Destination Guides·16 min read

Shangarh & Sainj Valley: The Quiet Meadow Guide (2026)

Shangarh is Himachal's Pandava-blessed meadow inside the Great Himalayan National Park eco-zone. How to reach it from Aut, where to stay, the no-loud-music rule, and how to visit without wrecking the quiet.

Rajesh Thakur·6/20/2026
The quiet green holy meadow of Shangarh in Sainj Valley, Kullu, before the crowds arrive
Practical Info·16 min read

How to Travel Himachal Without Wrecking It: A Quiet-Travel Manual

A non-preachy field manual for responsible travel in Himachal, by a Kullu local: how to behave, when to go, where to go instead, and the 2026 rules and bans that actually matter.

Rajesh Thakur·6/19/2026
Mamleshwar Mahadev temple complex in Mamel, Karsog, with a gilded kath-kuni pagoda, a red and gold gabled shrine and slate roofs against the valley hills
Heritage & Temples·20 min read

Mamleshwar Mahadev: The Eternal Flame Temple of Karsog

An eternal fire, a fist-sized wheat grain and a six-foot drum, kept in a mortar-less timber temple in the quiet Karsog valley. The honest story of Mamleshwar Mahadev: what is real, what is faith, and how to go.

Rajesh Thakur·6/18/2026
Antique Chamba rumal ceremonial cover with blue Krishna standing in a flowering grove, dense silk embroidery on unbleached cotton
Heritage & Temples·21 min read

Chamba Rumal: The Embroidery With No Wrong Side

Flip a real Chamba rumal over and the back is identical to the front. The dorukha stitch, the Pahari painters who draw the designs, real 2026 prices, where to buy one, and the truth about that UNESCO claim.

Rajesh Thakur·6/17/2026
Hillside covered in pink and red rhododendron blooms on Triund trek route in Himachal Pradesh
Destination Guides·21 min read

Rhododendron Season in HP: When the Hills Turn Pink

The crimson lal buransh and the pink gulabi state flower, where to see them across HP, and why our trees are flowering three weeks early this year.

Rajesh Thakur·5/5/2026
Apple orchard in Kotgarh, Shimla district, where Samuel Stokes planted India's first commercial apple trees in 1916
Destination Guides·23 min read

Kotgarh: Where India's First Apple Was Planted

In 1916 a 33-year-old American Quaker, later known as Satyanand Stokes, planted a handful of Red Delicious saplings at Barubag village in Thanedhar panchayat. Today Himachal's apple industry is worth Rs 5,000 crore a year. Here's the real Kotgarh story, the visit guide, and how to stay with the Stokes family.

Rajesh Thakur·4/20/2026